Friday 30 June 2023

Day one hundred and twenty one - Glendubh Bothy to Kinlochbervie

 29th June.

It threatened to rain in the morning but after a shower, that was about it until the evening. Sunny intervals all day, breezy.

As I said yesterday this area is just beautiful, I must come back again with more food and a pair of binoculars and stay a couple of days.
An easy walk beside the Loch to where Emily did the sketch of Quinag I have on the wall.  
A steady climb up on a good track then path to Ben Dreavie with stupendous views.
There is no path down the other side and it was a bit of a struggle through rocky bits interspersed with heather, tussock grass and boggy bits.
Eventually I reached the path that went down to Lochstack Lodge.
A good track goes up and around Arkle but I turned off early across what would have been very boggy ground in normal weather towards the lochs that go down to Rhiconich.
I had planned to camp somewhere along the lochs but  it was all bracken and heather.
Rhiconich Bridge 
I then thought that something to eat in the Rhiconich Hotel would be nice only to find it closed down.
I carried on along the road looking for a suitable pitch and ended up just outside Kinlochbervie, rather further than intended!
Started to rain as I put the tent up and then forgot to stop.


23.5 miles walked 1200 meters ascent.

Day one hundred and twenty - Benmore Lodge to Glendubh Bothy

 28th June.

The rain had stopped and there was some wind under a grey overcast sky. Heavy rain for an hour or so in the middle of the day then progressively more sunshine.

A climb up towards Eagle Rock before contouring round to the loch on a reasonable path.
The path continues into the wilds behind Ben More Assynt deteriorating as it goes until meeting a track that comes up Glen Cassley.
The scenery around here is just stunning, again pictures can't do it justice.
The rain only makes it more atmospheric, as long as the cloud doesn't come down as well!
Across a mile or so of pathless rock, heather and bog to find the path down Glen Coul and more beauty.

Loch Glen Coul is a sea loch, something you forget being a long way from the coast, until you see the seaweed.

Looking back to Glen Coul including the highest waterfall in Britain
Another steep climb over the spur and down to Glendhu bothy in the sunshine.

The bothy was empty and no-one came later, peace.


17.5 miles walked 1000 meters ascent.

Day one hundred and nineteen- School House Bothy to Benmore Lodge

 27th June.


The day started well with a breeze and high cloud but the wind dropped, the rain started and the midges came out.

I was joined in the bothy last night by two gap year students from New Zealand who were bike packing around Scotland and an undergraduate studying music in Birmingham who is walking Jo'G to Lands End. He is going ultralight, not even carrying a stove!
A straightforward walk today, down to Oykel Bridge.
Where I called into the hotel to see if they did breakfast for non residents and was told NO. I have found the Oykel Bridge unhelpful in the past as well and the notice on the door saying the bar wasn't open to non residents has only confirmed my opinion.
I did meet a staff member outside who said that breakfast was at 8.00 which was fine as it was 9.00 by then, but reception could have said that rather than NO.
The rain came on soon after I started walking up beside the river, not particularly heavy but continuous, the sort that seems to get in everywhere.
Gascon Cow
It was a short days walk, as I was doubtful of finding a place to pitch if I went much further,  so I had been hoping to use up some time in the hotel.
The only trail marker on the Way
Had to spend the time zipped up in the tent listening to the rain and watching the midges trying to get into the inner tent.
Benmore Lodge
I did get a phone signal at Oykel Bridge and was able to confirm that the firing range on Cape Wrath is not being used at the weekend so hope to be there on Saturday (1st).
Picture taken the next morning!


14.5 miles walked 400 meters ascent.

Tuesday 27 June 2023

Day one hundred and eighteenth - Ullapool to School House Bothy

26th June.

A bright morning, windy with showers forecast which was correct.

It was great to be able to cook properly in the hostel, haven't eaten so much fruit and vegetables for ages.
Away full of breakfast and with a pack heavy with food for the next four days.
Retraced my footsteps from yesterday for the first seven miles to East Rhiddorroch meeting a couple of interesting people on the way.
East Rhiddorroch Lodge 
Over the hill then to Loch an Daimh and past Knockdamph Bothy.
Met a Dutch cyclist who was heading for Ullapool when I was descending towards Glen Einig, a very rough track for a loaded bike.
Arrived at Duaig Bridge and the School House Bothy in good time, no-one here.
Made myself at home and then sat outside in the sunshine drinking tea and reading a book that was in the bothy, bit windy though.

New shoes today and still clean!


16 miles walked  450 meters ascent.


Monday 26 June 2023

Day one hundred and seventeen - Glen Douchary ro Ullappool

 25th June.

A noisy night as the wind was very strong but it stayed dry and was the same in the morning with high cloud.

The first part of the walk to East Rhiddorroch was across a boggy hillside on a mapped path that didn't exist.
Once down there was an 'interesting' bridge over a little gorge and then a bouncy bridge across the river before getting onto the good track all the way to Ullapool.

Surprisingly for a tourist town at lunchtime I failed to find a reasonable cafĂ©, the pubs were doing food but with fish and chips at around £19 I went to Tesco's instead!

I was able to dump my rucksack at the Youth Hostel where I'm staying even though check in isn't until 4.30.
Haven't seen one of these for a long time 
Back to Tesco's for the reason for being here, to pick up supplies and buy stuff for a good meal tonight (and breakfast).
It appears that the MOD are using the firing range on Cape Wrath next week but hopefully not at the weekend.


11 miles walked 150 meters ascent.