GR 11 Day 37. Camping Can Fosses to Nuria

11th July

The forecast was for another hot day so I made the effort and was away by 06.30, still warm, tee shirt only as I climbed the hill in the shade.

Up through the trees 

Another grassy coll this time with a gravel track to it, restricted vehicle access, before descending to contour round the hill above Queralbs.

Descending from the first coll 

I decided to take the GR 11-8 variation as it would be cooler than descending to Queralbs and walking up through the gorge.

View from the high path

There were some fantastic views down into the gorge and probably just as much climbing as the gorge route.

Cows on the high pasture

There is an amazing gravel road that zigzags up from Queralbs to a high carpark that I passed.

Gravel road zigzagging up the hill

The path continued past a spring where a whole river appears from the side of the hill and then climbs some more before the descent to Nuria.

Spring on the hillside

Looking down the Nuria gorge

Nuria is a holiday complex only accessible by rack railway, or foot, and was full of people. I had booked a room here or as it had started to cloud over I may have considered going on.

Approaching Nuria

After the last train left it was more like a ghost town.

The Nuria complex

Probably better to stay for a rest before tackling the highest point of the route tomorrow.

GR 11 Day 36 Camping Pirineus to Camping Can Fosses (Planoles)

10th July

A bright warm start to the day that only got hotter. It felt slightly better when the breeze picked up and I got some shelter from the trees but the temperature was still 28° at 19.30.

Road to Puigcerda 

The temperature today wasn't helped by the length of the day, 28 km + 1200 meters ascent/ descent, and that the highest point was 'only' 2000 meters.

Fiat 600 at an industrial unit, haven't seen one for years!

The day started with a walk down the road to Puigcerda, a big place which I walked round the edge of, lots of small industry.

Looking back to Puigcerda 

I thought I might get something in Burger King but it was shut, so I continued up the road to Age. The heat even at this time of the morning was enough to make me feel my age!

Age

A steady climb through trees and I arrived at the first coll, a clear grassy area, very different to the alpine type passes of the last sections.

Coll Marcer

Down and up again to the next grassy pass following the French border, unfortunately there was no sign of a Frenchman to taunt.

Border stone 

The path continued, contouring the side of the valley, above the road that snaked about below.

Pyrenean roads

Eventually arrived at Camping con fosses to a welcome shower and a nice shaded pitch.

Dorria

The beer was very welcome.

El Tejido helping with the beer

GR 11 Day 35 Riu de Vallcivera to Camping Pirineus

 9th July

A different sort of day today,  first it started downhill for a change after a good night's sleep, there were a few drops of rain overnight but the day was dry.

Morning view

As I started the climb on the other side, it wasn't that different! it clouded over and the wind picked up.

A group building a bridge 

By the time I reached the Portella d'Engorgs, 2680 meters, and sat down for a breather with Sebastian, a German GR11 hiker who had passed me on the way up, it was definitely Scottish weather. sheltering behind a boulder and only stopping until you couldn't feel your fingers.

Looking back to the pass

There was a small snow wreath to negotiate, I bypassed it on some steep scree, otherwise no sign of snow.

Descent 

A straightforward descent followed by a path that contoured round to the Refugi de Malniu.

Looking back to the Refugi

I had planned to stop at the campsite here but it was far too early and the weather was good, the sun had come out and the wind eased, so I decided to carry on down to Camping Pirineus.

The way down, note lack of shade.

It was nearly all downhill but the lower I went the hotter it got until at the campsite it was 26°, I was glad to stop!

Church at Guils de Cerdanya

Another good campsite. I was tempted by the swimming pool but by the time I had showered, sorted the tent etc it was too late.

El Tejido checking the site before leaving.

Temperature still 22° at 21.20.

GR11 Day 34. Encamp to Riu de Vallcivera

8th July.

Not too hot today, in the afternoon it turned cloudy and there was a good breeze.

Estany 

It was what has become a 'normal' start to the day, climbing steeply away from the town in the woods.

Escaping 'civilization'

It was quite a long time before the sound of traffic and construction work was left behind.

All abilities tourist trail 

The GR11 uses some tourist trails here and it was good to be walking on a smooth level track until it turned up through the trees again.

Terraced field

It's difficult to take interesting pictures in the trees but it was a very pleasant walk which turned up the Riu Madriu valley and followed it to the top.

Near the top of the Riu Madriu 

Almost at the top is the Refugio de I'Illa, very smart and modern, it only opened in 2017.

Refugio de I'Illa

I called in for a drink and a bit of cake before heading up to the dam and over the Coll de Vall Civera (2550 meters) and steeply down the other side to find somewhere to put the tent.

The Andoran Spanish border 

Loads of cows on this side, Spain again, and the bells sound like several village churches competing.

GR11 Day 33 la Cortinada to Encamp

7th July

It poured with rain all night only stopping in the early morning. A good day for walking as it only warmed up slowly and there was a nice breeze.

La Cortinada in the rain 

It never fails to amaze me how fast everything dries as soon as the sun appears, humidity going from 100% in the morning to 28% by the time I got to Encamp.

Steaming woods

Not a lot to report today, the now normal climb up through trees in the morning, this time cutting directly up near a switchback road which the path met on a couple of occasions.

Looking down to la Cortinada 

Over the top, where the path again joins the road, there were a lot of cars parked and a good grassy area that descended slowly into the trees again.

The top

Picnic area where the path meets the road

The path got steeper the further down the hill I went with a steep rocky section before reaching the outskirts of Encamp.

Encamp

I was intending to camp at Camping Internacional in the town but when I googled it to find out exactly where it was I discovered that it was closed. I subsequently learnt that they are building a stadium there instead.

Sant Roma de Les Bons, consecrated 1164

It wasn't hard to find a reasonably priced room instead and I stocked up at the big supermarket as well, the only thing I couldn't find was the nice tubes of condensed milk.

Encamp

GR11 Day 32 Arinsal to la Cortinada

 6th July

Very short day today because of the weather forecast. Yesterday they were giving thunderstorms starting at about 11.00 and I thought I would just go over the hill and maybe get to la Cortinada without getting too wet but there was a reprieve in the mornings forecast, The storm is now not due to start until 15.00.

Arinsal

Started the day uphill as usual this time climbing the switchback road out of Arinsal before reaching the forest path to climb to  the Coll de Cases.

Climbing the road above Arinsal 

It was surprisingly dry after last night's thunderstorm and the temperature reasonable.

The trees have been thinned and the logs left against the trees so they don't roll down the slope

Soon after crossing the Coll, only 1954  meters, there was some lightning and it started raining enough for me to get out the jacket.

View from the coll

Five minutes later I was taking the jacket off again as the sun had come out. False alarm.

Down through some fine old trees

The descent was easier than the other side as the path went easily down in a series of zigzags to Arans.

La Cortinada 

This isn't a route to anywhere in particular and it is surprising that there are as many hotels here, it isn't even a ski area.

Arans

As I was expecting the storm to hit earlier I had time to catch up with E-mails and things before I could check in to the hotel that I had booked to keep out of the rain tonight.

La Cortinada

The real storm arrived about 15.30, not bad forecast accuracy.

La Cortinada