Kungsleden 03/07/26

Day 3. Sälka to Kaitum

Bright sunshine at 05.30 woke me up and it stayed bright for most of the day with only a light shower in the early afternoon.

Morning boardwalk 

Amazing weather 

Perfect still morning 

Glacial water

Some bridges are very good 

Some less so!

Lines of dwarf willow define watercourses 

Boardwalk skirting the lake 

Looking back up the valley 

Moose poo

Last bridge of the day

View from near Kaitumjaure Fjällstuga 

The insects had a lovely time as the wind was very light and at times nonexistent. I don't think that I got too badly bitten but I'll know better in the morning.

The views were incredible as I walked down the valley and I caught a glimpse of the hillsh around Kebnekaise, Sweden's highest peak.

I was slightly tempted to go to the top but woud have been an extra two days and when I read that the it was like climbing Ben Nevis by the tourist route and just as crowded I wasn't tempted.

The trail was quite busy and there were usually some people in view, dwarfed by the huge scenery, quite photogenic.

The vegetation started to increase as I descend with dwarf willow defining the water courses and bits of scrubby birch appearing as I approached the Fjällstuga.

Bird life appeared as well with Redshank, Redstart and lower down Willow Warbler and Cuckoo. There were a few pairs of Arctic Terns flying around as well but I saw no raptors probably because I was too busy trying not to fall over on the rocky path.

I decided to have a bunk in the Fjällstuga to escape the insects. The hut wasn't too busy and I had a room to myself.

I had my first sauna as well, very hot and sweaty but good.

23.8km walked.

125m ascent.

Kungsleden 02/07/26

Day 2. Alesjaure to Sälka

A bright day with plenty of sunny intervals and almost no wind, very warm in the thin sunshine. Good weather for insects!

Meditationsplats soon after leaving Alesjaure 

There are a number of meditation places along the trail with beautiful views where you are encouraged to stop chill out.

The way ahead

The path climbed slowly up to a final short steep climb to the highest point of the trail, the Tjäktja Pass at 1150m. There is a refuge and toilet at the pass where there were also some large snow patches.

Hills all around 

The Tjäktja pass

Looking back from the pass

After a short break I started the descent to the beautiful U shaped valley of the Tjäktjavagge

Tjäktjavagge Valley 

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Keeping the hair under control 

It was a fairly steep descent for a while but soon leveled out to a gentle descent of the valley that will continue with tomorrows walk as well. 

Looking back up the Tjäktjavagge Valley

I passed a Sami village before reaching the Fjällstuga, just a collection of huts with no apparent tracks between them although they do use the 'sex bikes'.

Camp at Säilka

I think it was a combination of hot sun, a long first day yesterday and difficult conditions underfoot but when I got to Sälka I was very happy to get the tent up and collapse inside to watch the insects trying, unsuccessfully, to get through the mesh for a feed.

View from the tent

The sun dipped behind the mountains later and the temperature in the tent came down enough to climb into my sleeping bag. Very pleasant.

25.6km walked

380m ascent.

Kungsleden 01/07/26

 Day 1, Abisco to Alesjaure.

It was a beautiful morning when I left Abisco with the sun appearing between the clouds although the high tops were covered. The wind increased during the day and a few light showers made it feel cold in the afternoon as I climbed higher.

Leaving Abisco

There are ski trails,  snowmobile trails and walking routes. The walking routes marked by red paint on rocks and trees the winter routes by red crosses on poles.

A taste of things to come

The first section was an easy walk on fairly level ground with board walks anywhere that was a bit wet which meant that I arrived at the end of the section at about lunchtime.There are boardwalks crossing many of the wet  bits, narrow ones for the hiking route and wider two and sometimes three track ones for snowmobiles and quad bikes although all the bikes I saw had six wheels. Sex bikes?

Boardwalk for snowmobiles 

The first section was an easy walk on fairly level grind with board walks anywhere that was a bit wet which meant that I arrived at the end of the section at about lunchtime.

Boardwalk for walking 

There are a number of bridges like this

Amazing scenery 

I had planned to start up the next, steep, section and camp by the bridge over the river but although it was a nice sheltered spot I decided to push on.

An easy path

When I got to 800 meters the wind was strong in my face and with an occasional light shower it started to feel quite cold.

Boardwalk through a swampy bit

It wasn't really surprising that it was cold as I was north of the arctic circle at 2500ft! The scenery was superb with stunted birch trees lower down and arctic tundra / Cairngorms landscape higher up.

Rainbow over lake Rádunjávri

Big glaciated hills in the distance 

There were a few camping spots as I walked beside the lake but the wind was coming straight down the valley and there was no shelter.

Approaching Alessjaure

I carried on to Alesjaure Fjällstuga where I got a bed for the night in one of the cabins.

Alesjaure Fjällstuga 

33.6 km walked

460m ascent.