Friday, 17 July 2026

Kungsleden 17/07/26

Day 17. Njallavárátje to Aigertstugan.

It was a cooler cloudy morning when I woke after a good nights sleep. I'm glad that I brought the warmer sleeping bag, it works well with the draughty tent.

Looking back at the lake by the emergency shelter 
Another couple had camped here last night but there was no sign of them when I left.

The path goes up and down over the tops
Luckily the cold wind was behind me but I did have to put gloves on for a while.
With a few more lakes here and there

Starting to descend

Then up and down a bit 

The final descent to Ammarnäs 
The path continued up and down over various lumps until descending to the treeline for a few more ups and downs before reaching the top of the chairlift that comes up from Ammarnäs.
Ski centre chalets and caravans
A steep descent to the deserted ski centre then on the road to Ammarnäs and the supermarket to stock up for the rest of the walk.
Supermarket at Ammarnäs 
A lunch stop then at the guide centre to use the WiFi and upload photos etc before crossing the river and heading for Aigertstugan.
Up through the woods 
It was a steady climb up through the woods, hot at times when sheltered from the wind.

Dwarf Cornel
The woods were full of little white flowers, Dwarf Cornel according to PlantApp all very pretty.
River vanishing into the gorge
There was a solid wooden bridge over the Ruovdatjjuhka River which pours over a 4m step before disappearing into the deep gorge under the bridge.
View back to Ammarnäs 

After a short airy walk along a rocky outcrop it wasn't long before the Fjällstuga came into view set on a knoll between two lakes.

Aigertstugan 
A really nice building with 26 beds a big kitchen and most importantly a sauna beside one of the lakes.

I haven't attached a map for the last couple of days as the one l have on the phone has the wrong route marked.

20k walked

500m ascent 

Kungsleden 16/07/26

Day 16. Stijgguo to Njallavárátje

It was a clear bright morning and the sun soon heated the tent enough to drive me out into a beautiful fresh morning.

All packed and ready to go
Someone else had arrived and pitched near by, I hadn't heard anything.
A few scrubby trees on the way up
A climb up the hill then, not in the trees this time as I had a high start but still a good climb to the top.
A high level river


Miles of nothing 
Big rounded hills with a good path over the top and a couple of nice bridges. Perfect high level walking again this morning.
Bridge number one in the middle of nowhere 

Bridge number two 
Down into the trees again to a steep rocky path that descended to meet a 4X4 track that leads to the stuga at Rävfalls.
And still the loveliness goes on

Cabin at Rävfalls 
A beautiful position and it has a sauna but it was only 13.00 so far to early to stop but I had my lunch and made full use of the excellent facilities.
Bridge over the falls
Across the bridge over the Rävfalls (Fox Falls) before the long but easy climb to the top of Stuorajäbba (931m) with various ground nesting birds trying to distract me from their chicks.
Up to Stuorajäbba 

Wonky cairn on Stuorajäbba 
I was sitting near the top wondering how much further to walk today when I spotted the small emergency shelter in the distance, a good target to head for.
Looking hairy at the top
The notice on the door said that you should only stay overnight in an emergency although welcome to have a break here.
Inside the emergency shelter 
I went inside the very nice shelter, two sleeping shelves, a stove, firewood and even a couple of blankets.
Lovely camp spot
I made my dinner and thought about it but although I'm sure others have stayed overnight I pitched my tent outside with a clear conscience.

27.3k walked 

660m ascent 



Kungsleden 15/07/26

Day 15. Adolfsström to Stijgguo.

It was an overcast morning when I left Adolfsström with quite a strong wind for the walk around the lake to Bäverholmen.

The road from Adolfsström 
There was a good campsite at Bäverholmen as well as a restaurant but it didn't open until 12.00.
Bäverholmen
On up by the river and over a couple of bridges before starting a steady climb to the treeline.
First bridge

Cabin in the woods just after the second bridge

Woodland path
It was very windy on the top but a beautiful walk. The views weren't as spectacular as the last few days but still very good.
"Gate" in a reindeer fence 

One of many lakes
There were lots of high lakes and an emergency shelter on the top, and ideal place for a late lunch detour.
Windy but beautiful 
It was a good clean cabin with a stove, wood shed and toilet. There were three others lunching there as well including the girl I had helped to row across the lake a few days ago.
Late lunch hut
I rejoined the path hoping to find a sheltered place to camp but failed although the wind did appear to be easing.
Wide open spaces
I knew that I had to find somewhere to camp before the trail climbed over the next hill and ended up in a rather draughty spot just before the path started climbing.
Someone else likes the route as well
The wind died for a while when I was making dinner and the hordes of insects that appeared made me glad I was in a generally windy place.
Exposed but beautiful campsite 

I dropped my glasses in the dwarf birch when I was fighting with a headnet and didn't notice. When I did start looking for them I thought they would be impossible to find but just as I was about to give up I spotted them. Thank goodness for that.


32k walked

450m ascent 

Tuesday, 14 July 2026

Kungsleden 14/07/26

Day 14. Jäkkvik to Adolfsström.

Another bright and beautiful day with a good breeze, perfect weather for walking again.

Leaving Jäkkvik 
I did meet someone on the way who said she was here at this time last year and the temperature was 35⁰, she had to go home and try again this year.
The trail through the woods 
It was a good day for me though, perfect temperature and a nice insect controlling breeze.
Perfect timber for new boardwalks 
There was a climb up through the trees to a short but beautiful section of open fell, it actually felt quite cold when fully exposed to the wind.
Beautiful open hillside 
A gentle descent into the trees and past various lakes and I arrived at a bridge crossing the outlet of another big lake.
Willow Warbler 
There was a set of parts there to build a new bridge some of which made a nice lunchtime seat.
Plenty of water
Timber for the boardwalks and parts for bridges like this are delivered to the sites by snowmobile during the winter for construction in the summer.
Open woodlands
I was amazed at the quality of the 6x2 timber that was left out in the sun, it was all absolutely straight without a twist to be seen. I wish we could get construction timber as good as this at home.
The bridge that is due for replacement 
It is becoming more obvious that I am south of the arctic circle now as the trees are noticeably bigger and the undergrowth thicker although I was still walking through nice open forest.
Plenty of different trails 
I soon reached a gravel road that took me to Adolfsström, a collection of houses and a little shop/cafe which at first sight appeared to have a lot for sale but after a quick look round I realised that the stock was actually very limited.
Nearly at Adolfsström 
They have some nice little cabins that aren't ridiculously priced so I decided to stay for the night.
Interior of the shop/cafe

My little cabin
22k walked

500m ascent