Tuesday, 21 July 2026

Kungsleden 18/07/26

Day 18. Aigertstugan to Tärnasjö.

It was a cold morning with quite a strong wind but sunny, very good walking conditions.

Leaving the Fjällstuga 
It was a long steady climb which steepened to the 1000+ meter pass between two hills. 

Looking back
The views were superb and although it was cold enough to wear gloves I still managed to sit on a rock for a while enjoying the surroundings.
Huge open plateau 
Once I reached the top there was about 4k of rocky and barren landscape with various lakes and knolls, really beautiful but decidedly chilly.
A bit rocky
There is an emergency shelter just before the path sweeps down, across a river and then ascends to another shelter.
Very rocky

Rocky with lakes

Emergency shelter and toilet

The path through the dip
The path continued it's climb to a pass and then descended to the birch forest and the Servvejuhka River which is crossed by another wooden bridge.

And over the next ridge
There is a Fjällstuga not far from the bridge that I had though of stopping at but I was enjoying the walk and didn't want to stop.
Over the bridge 
The path climbs steeply away from the cabin before easing towards the top.
To more lakes
There is a long easy descent to a bridge where my guide book said "the camping is very good"

Over the top again
I'm not sure what the author's definition of very good is but all I found were a few rocky bits amongst acres of dwarf birch. The wind didn't help either.

Descending towards the bridge
I was enjoying the walk and conditions so I looked at the time and the distance to the next cabin and decided to keep walking.

Descent to the Lakeshore 
A long up and down section then through the trees and past several lakes before getting into thicker woods for the final descent to Tärnasjö
View from Tärnasjö

A long but very enjoyable day with a comfortable walking temperature and hardly any insects.

Climbing up the first hill of the day 

33k walked

900m ascent

Friday, 17 July 2026

Kungsleden 17/07/26

Day 17. Njallavárátje to Aigertstugan.

It was a cooler cloudy morning when I woke after a good nights sleep. I'm glad that I brought the warmer sleeping bag, it works well with the draughty tent.

Looking back at the lake by the emergency shelter 
Another couple had camped here last night but there was no sign of them when I left.

The path goes up and down over the tops
Luckily the cold wind was behind me but I did have to put gloves on for a while.
With a few more lakes here and there

Starting to descend

Then up and down a bit 

The final descent to Ammarnäs 
The path continued up and down over various lumps until descending to the treeline for a few more ups and downs before reaching the top of the chairlift that comes up from Ammarnäs.
Ski centre chalets and caravans
A steep descent to the deserted ski centre then on the road to Ammarnäs and the supermarket to stock up for the rest of the walk.
Supermarket at Ammarnäs 
A lunch stop then at the guide centre to use the WiFi and upload photos etc before crossing the river and heading for Aigertstugan.
Up through the woods 
It was a steady climb up through the woods, hot at times when sheltered from the wind.

Dwarf Cornel
The woods were full of little white flowers, Dwarf Cornel according to PlantApp all very pretty.
River vanishing into the gorge
There was a solid wooden bridge over the Ruovdatjjuhka River which pours over a 4m step before disappearing into the deep gorge under the bridge.
View back to Ammarnäs 

After a short airy walk along a rocky outcrop it wasn't long before the Fjällstuga came into view set on a knoll between two lakes.

Aigertstugan 
A really nice building with 26 beds a big kitchen and most importantly a sauna beside one of the lakes.

I haven't attached a map for the last couple of days as the one l have on the phone has the wrong route marked.

20k walked

500m ascent 

Kungsleden 16/07/26

Day 16. Stijgguo to Njallavárátje

It was a clear bright morning and the sun soon heated the tent enough to drive me out into a beautiful fresh morning.

All packed and ready to go
Someone else had arrived and pitched near by, I hadn't heard anything.
A few scrubby trees on the way up
A climb up the hill then, not in the trees this time as I had a high start but still a good climb to the top.
A high level river


Miles of nothing 
Big rounded hills with a good path over the top and a couple of nice bridges. Perfect high level walking again this morning.
Bridge number one in the middle of nowhere 

Bridge number two 
Down into the trees again to a steep rocky path that descended to meet a 4X4 track that leads to the stuga at Rävfalls.
And still the loveliness goes on

Cabin at Rävfalls 
A beautiful position and it has a sauna but it was only 13.00 so far to early to stop but I had my lunch and made full use of the excellent facilities.
Bridge over the falls
Across the bridge over the Rävfalls (Fox Falls) before the long but easy climb to the top of Stuorajäbba (931m) with various ground nesting birds trying to distract me from their chicks.
Up to Stuorajäbba 

Wonky cairn on Stuorajäbba 
I was sitting near the top wondering how much further to walk today when I spotted the small emergency shelter in the distance, a good target to head for.
Looking hairy at the top
The notice on the door said that you should only stay overnight in an emergency although welcome to have a break here.
Inside the emergency shelter 
I went inside the very nice shelter, two sleeping shelves, a stove, firewood and even a couple of blankets.
Lovely camp spot
I made my dinner and thought about it but although I'm sure others have stayed overnight I pitched my tent outside with a clear conscience.

27.3k walked 

660m ascent 



Kungsleden 15/07/26

Day 15. Adolfsström to Stijgguo.

It was an overcast morning when I left Adolfsström with quite a strong wind for the walk around the lake to Bäverholmen.

The road from Adolfsström 
There was a good campsite at Bäverholmen as well as a restaurant but it didn't open until 12.00.
Bäverholmen
On up by the river and over a couple of bridges before starting a steady climb to the treeline.
First bridge

Cabin in the woods just after the second bridge

Woodland path
It was very windy on the top but a beautiful walk. The views weren't as spectacular as the last few days but still very good.
"Gate" in a reindeer fence 

One of many lakes
There were lots of high lakes and an emergency shelter on the top, and ideal place for a late lunch detour.
Windy but beautiful 
It was a good clean cabin with a stove, wood shed and toilet. There were three others lunching there as well including the girl I had helped to row across the lake a few days ago.
Late lunch hut
I rejoined the path hoping to find a sheltered place to camp but failed although the wind did appear to be easing.
Wide open spaces
I knew that I had to find somewhere to camp before the trail climbed over the next hill and ended up in a rather draughty spot just before the path started climbing.
Someone else likes the route as well
The wind died for a while when I was making dinner and the hordes of insects that appeared made me glad I was in a generally windy place.
Exposed but beautiful campsite 

I dropped my glasses in the dwarf birch when I was fighting with a headnet and didn't notice. When I did start looking for them I thought they would be impossible to find but just as I was about to give up I spotted them. Thank goodness for that.


32k walked

450m ascent