Kungsleden 08/07/26

Day 8. Aktse to Pårte.

It was a perfectly calm sunny morning and it stayed sunny all day but luckily the wind increased in the afternoon.

Waiting for the boat 

I had bought a ticket for the boat crossing last night and regretted it this morning as it would have been ideal for a morning row.

Is it a mirror or a lake

Great views up the lake to the glaciers in the distance that give the colour to the water.

Full insect kit

The pull up through the trees was not as pleasant. I had to keep well covered, complete with head net to try to avoid being bitten and with the sun and no wind I think I got hotter than I did in the sauna last night.

Swallowtail Butterfly, a long way north

I didn't expect to see many butterflies today as I hadn't seen many so far so I was surprised when what I first mistook for a falling leaf turned out to be a Swallowtail (I think) and it stayed still long enough to be photographed.

One of a number of bridges 

It was a relief when I climbed clear of the trees to the open hill and enough breeze to alow me to remove the outer layers.

Above the trees

I sat on a rock for quite a while to cool down and admire the view. It wasn't labeled as a meditationsplats but could have been.

Emergency shelter 

There was a long section of open hillside, some of it quite steep and rocky but I didn't mind going slowly and enjoying myself before having to descend to the woods again.

Grouse

About halfway there was an emergency shelter, typically Swedish it had toilets a stove and a supply of wood. All perfectly clean and tidy.

Rocky path

Down into the woods then and it was actually very pleasant. The wind was strong enough to keep it cool and stop the insects and from being too much of a nuisance.

That lake is where I'm going

The guide book said that the next Fjällstuga only took cash so I thought I would find somewhere to wild camp.

But first I have to go through the trees 

It is nice to have use of the kitchen to keep away from the insects so I called in to the cabin to ask and they do take cards now.

At the lake

At least the mosquitoes aren't a problem here tonight, I think the midges are just trying to make me feel at home.

Pårte Fjällstuga 

I found a good place to camp just below the Fjällstuga, very midgey when I pitched but reasonable at bed time.

19k walked 

450m ascent 

Kungsleden 07/07/26

Day 7. Sitojaure to Aktse.

It rained most of the night but I had managed to get into the tent without allowing many mosquitoes in and a quick killing session soon removed them to give me a good night's sleep.

The boat crossing 

It was a very short walk today up and over a saddle to another lake crossing 

Happy people 

A short speedy boat crossing had us quickly on the other side.

Another misty morning 

The rain eased during the morning and there was a good dry period as I climbed over the saddle and down the other side.

Snow patches and a rocky path 

The wide empty spaces over the hills make excellent walking and give wonderful views 

The next lake to cross 

Again the ferry is 9am or 5pm, the same problem as yesterday although in this case there are rowing boats.

A rocky descent 

Tomorrows walk was too much to do in an afternoon and there was only one boat on the shore which, potentially, meant three 3km crossings. Again better to stay put.

Inside the Fjällstuga 

I had spoken to a young Swedish girl at the last campsite who is walking the full length of Sweden and she had arrived at Aktse hoping to row across but also had the one boat problem.

Aktse Fjällstuga 

Being a sucker for a pretty face I offered to go over with her and bring the boat back and it was a delightful trip, no wind and some great views up the lake.

Rowing across the lake

As it turned out I needn't have gone because as we arrived two people appeared and I rowed them back.

Path to the jetty 

Another good evening in the cabin and an excellent sauna. It turned wet but the rumour is that tomorrow is going to be good.

8.5k walked 

350m ascent.

Kungsleden 06/07/26

Day 6. Saltolukta to Sitojaure.

It was a still muggy morning as I wandered round the Fjällstation complex trying to find the right path that I needed for the climb up through the birch trees.

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Clearly labeled when I found it

The sun did come out occasionally but there were a few showers, one with thunder.

Misty morning 

The views back to the lake and the hills around were stunning and when the wind picked up a bit it was possible to stop and look without getting eaten by mosquitoes.

The view back from above the treeline

Dramatic hills

There was a small emergency shelter nearly half way along this section and like all the cabins and huts that I've seen in Sweden it was immaculately clean and tidy.

The path goes ever on

The thunder shower crept up behind and caught me when I was almost at todays highest point and my trousers were soaked before I could even think about taking out the over trousers. At least they dried when it passed.

And on and on

I saw the next shower coming and got the trousers on but it was hardly worth it.

A glimpse of the destination 

The next lake to cross soon came into view and there was an easy descent to the begining of the birch trees followed by a slightly rockier path down to the Fjällstuga.

Sitojaure Fjällstuga 

From here there is a ferry crossing, with no rowing boats, at either 5pm or 8 am. With uncertain camping the other side I thought that the afternoon crossing was too late so decided to stay where I was.

Nearly perfect campsite 

There seemed to be nearly as many mosquitoes in the cabin as there were outside and as there was a nice grassy area to camp on I thought I'd take a chance, pitched the tent, threw my rucksack inside and retired to the kitchen in the Fjällstuga to drink tea, talk to the few people there and kill mosquitoes.

19.3k walked 

425m ascent

Kungsleden 05/07/26

Day 5. Vakkotavare to Saltolukta. Zero day

A beautiful sunny morning changed to rain showers as I took the bus down the road to Kebnats where a ferry was waiting to take us across to Saltolukta Fjällstation.

Off the bus at Kebnats

The only walking today was between hostels, bus and ferry but there was plenty of interesting talks with people of various nationalities, luckily for me mostly having English as a common language.

The ferry, not sure how I managed to take a black and white photo!

I had a lovely sauna in a brand new building, only opened on the first of July, bought supplies for the next few days and caught up with emails, blog, etc. before resuming conversation with random people.

Evening view from the Fjällstation 

A Fjällstation is a bigger version of a Fjällstuga and has a restaurant so I didn't need to eat dried food tonight!

No walking today but very enjoyable.

Kungsleden 04/07/26

 Day 4.Kaitum to Vakkotavare.

A wet morning although the clouds were fairly high giving me some hope. The rain did ease and stop to make it a very pleasant walking day.

Following the river Kaitumjäkka

The first part of the day followed up the river before climbing over a saddle and descending to lake Teusajaure, steeply at the end. 

Rain clearing

Rocky path down to Teusajaure 

I was very early for the ferry despite starting fairly late but luckily there were two of the STF rowing boats pulled up on the shore

Rowing across Lake Teusajaure 

There are three boats at each crossing and you have to always leave one on each side so I only had to make one trip.

Path up from the crossing

A long climb up the other side and over to another lake, Suorvajaure. The sun appeared and it was actually quite hot at times.

An unnecessary detour to this bridge, I could have waded the river but at least I kept my feet dry

Miles of open hillside

It was a huge expanse of nothing, like a giant version of the Cairngorms and the few people that I did meet only emphasized the emptyness.

There were quite a lot of other walkers

As I reached the top the view of the lake with the mountains and glaciers beyond was amazing.

Glaciers and mountains in the distance 

Some of the cairns marking the path had poles as snow marks making them look like fishing gnomes.

Lake Suorvajaure

A long descent brought me to the treeline where the path became much steeper as it dropped to the Fjällstuga and the road beside the lake.

Lake Suorvajaure

It had been so remote and all of a sudden there were campervans in the carpark. To be fair, the road had no traffic and doesn't go anywhere although there is a bus once per day to take me, and others, twenty seven kilometres to the start of the next section of the trail.

Vakkotavare Fjällstuga 

I was going to camp but I couldn't find a reasonable site without too many mosquitoes so I stayed in the Vakkotavare Fjällstuga.

23k walked

700m ascent.