Te Araroa 25/12/25

Day 95, John Tait Hut to Upper Travers Hut (2023)

A nice morning but the weather forecast that we had from St Arnaud was for heavy rain for the afternoon and night. 

A good path from the hut 

Getting steeper and gnarlier 

I had decided on a short day to the next hut rather than try the high pass in bad weather and everyone else was of the same opinion.

With a few river crossings

And the occasional bridge

The path carried on beside the river getting steeper and steeper as the river got smaller and faster as I crossed numerous side streams.

Beautiful forest

It had started raining before I got to the hut

The clouds descended and the rain started just as I approached the hut but I got there with only wet legs from the long grass on the final approach.

Hut interior 

Exciting times, note the Christmas hats

The rest of the day was spent listening to inane Christmas songs, playing card games, reading and trying to avoid eating all my snacks.

We had a good fire

Fourteen in the hut, with an average age of 34.9, trying to amuse ourselves and hoping for a better day tomorrow.

Te Araroa 24/12/25

Day 94, St Arnaud to John Tait Hut (2017)

A cloudy morning that threatened rain when I left the hostel but it improved and by lunchtime there was bright sunshine with a few fluffy clouds.

Lake Rotoiti, St Arnaud jetty 

The first section of the walk, with Charlie for company, was beside Lake Rotoiti but the track was mostly in the trees with limited views.

Looking back at Lake Rotoiti 

2000 km marker by the trail 

Head of Lake Rotoiti 

A short break at the lake end hut before continuing on by the river through some beautiful trees and up by the Travers River.

Travers River

Bridge over the Travers River 

The river was also beautiful with the longest suspension bridge so far to cross at the bottom.

Charlie having a lunch time nap 

Through the woods 

Mountains ahead

Rushing water and hills

The water was incredibly clear but I didn't see any fish however we met a fisherman who had caught two small trout.

Last bridge for the day, a fairly sturdy one.

Hut appearing through the trees

There was a South Island Robin on the path that was totally unafraid of me, looking a bit like a big fat grey Sparrow.

South Island Robin 

The hut is in a perfect place with mountains all around and the river running past the door.

Eleven TA walkers and four others in the hut tonight, plenty of space as there are twenty seven beds.

Another good days walk with weather that was much better than expected.

Te Araroa 23/12/25

Day 93, St Arnaud, rest day.

The hills around St Arnaud

Quite happy to be here sheltered from the rain and wind this morning although it brightened up to be a lovely afternoon.

A rest day in theory but it was far more stressful than walking.

 First I spent an hour and a half sorting out my phone account so only managed two breakfasts. I then had to plan my route for the next week and book the huts, after that, when I had a date for my arrival at Hamner Springs,I could book my accommodation there.

 Once that was done I was able to contact the store in Wellington and get them to deliver my new shoes to Hanmer Springs along with two pole ends as one of mine has disintegrated.

It was then lunchtime and some excellent vegetables before getting down to updating this blog and do the shopping for the next seven days.

A fine dinner with plenty of veggies then rucksack packing for the morning.

Very restful!

The hostel

Te Araroa 22/12/25

Day 92, Hunters Hut to St Arnaud (1992)

A beautiful morning, cold, what else at 910 meters?, but a completely clear sky with the sun just touching the peaks when I woke.

A clear morning 

A steady climb up through the forest which I made the most of as this is the last day in the Richmond Ranges.

First view of the Wairau River

There were some open spaces amid the varying tree cover with nice views and all too soon I reached the top of the ridge where there was a proper track.

Good path through the trees

Moss on the trees

An occasional view

I arrived at a gravel road which I followed for a short distance before reaching the 'main' road.

Track down from the hills

It was very different to be walking down a track and although it was steep it was certainly faster than more recent descents

Eight kilometres of road walking which went very quickly and I arrived at St Arnaud where I had a hostel bed for the next two nights.

Road walking for a change 

There were loads of TA walkers there, some arriving, some leaving including Ruby who was meeting her dad for the next two weeks walk.

Cattle and hills

A quick pizza before I showered, did my laundry and started trying to sort out my phone as the plan I had purchased on arrival in New Zealand had expired.

Alpine Lodge

It turned into a wet evening and night, a big change from the morning.

Te Araroa 21/12/25

Day 91, Hunters hut to Redhills Hut (1972)

It was a cloudy morning but improved during the day and by the time I arrived at Redhills Hut there was a brilliant blue sky with a few fluffy clouds.

Morning from the hut

Up into the scrub

A steep climb up from the hut into the alpine scrub where I stayed for most of the day with only an occasional dip into the tree line.

The views were spectacular, a shame that the good weather had to wait until I'd nearly finished the Richmonds.

An explanation of the area, click to enlarge.

There were places that were just rock and gravel with nothing growing and others where the hardy Manuka was growing, sometimes quite tall.

Porters Creek Hut, very distinctive

The path followed a couple of rivers with high passes between them. The river beds were wide jumbles of stone, it must be an amazing place when it's really wet. Luckily for me there wes little water and I managed get across everything with only one wet foot when the solid looking stone I stood on wasn't.

I had an early lunch stop at Porters Creek Hut where, unusually, I had a proper meal as I seemed to be running out of energy. The problem with a shortage of café stops.

Braided river bed

Trail marker in the tussocks

The last section to the hut was a path across about a kilometer of boggy tussock grass, that spoilt the dry feet.

Redhills Hut

Just two of us in the hut tonight, myself and Vojta, a beautiful evening but it turned very cold when the sun went down.

Te Araroa 20/12/25

Day 90, Mid Wairoa Hut to Hunters Hut (1953)

It was a beautiful starry night but a bit cloudier in the morning when I set off up the river with Vojta, from the Chech Republic.

Beautiful morning 

Little path up by the river

The path climbs high above the river with precipitous drops before descending, crossing the river and doing the same thing on the other side.

Crossing the river the first time

A steep bit down to the river

Another crossing 

The river was beautiful but hard work 

There were eight river crossings altogether, none of them over knee deep but it would definitely be tricky if there was any amount of rain.

The river was beautiful, again, with emerald pools for swimming if the time and temperature had been right!

Above the river

A short climb from the river to Top Wairoa Hut where we had lunch. Another busy hut last night, six bunks and twelve people according to the book.

Wild goats 

Good walking 

I left Vojta eating there and carried on up the open hillside. It was a wonderful walk. Rocky in places, good but steep paths.  

It started to rain which was quite pleasant for a while and it soon blew past but after I had dried out it started heavily again with increased wind forcing me to get my rain gear out.

It was very cold on the ridge and I was glad to have the extra clothes, there was also a hint of sleet just to concentrate the mind.

I loved every minute of today's high level walk, the weather was interesting, the views beautiful and the walking was wonderful.

Down to the river

The walk down was also open ground right down to the river, so unusual to be able to see where I was going, I could even see the hut above the trees in the distance.

Bare gravel and rock

It was a very steep climb from the river up to the hut where was surprised to find Charlie who had decided to stay here rather than face the crush at the next hut.

Four of us here tonight, nice warm fire and everything drying. I'm sure it doesn't smell very nice but we don't notice at this stage.