Shetland 06/06/25

Lerwick to Unst Friday 6th June.

The overnight ferry to Lerwick was excellent, it was a nearly smooth crossing and I managed to sleep well in what they call a Pod which is really just a fancy reclining seat.

First sight of Lerwick 

An early morning arrival into Lerwick gave me a chance to look round and see what was worth going to look at when it opened.

Nice Shetland skiff by the museum 

The old castle walls with its cannon, that were never used in anger, were interesting and a walk out to the Horse of the Nab for the view down Bressay Sound well worth while.

Defence against passing yacht

Back to the Shetland museum then which was a bit of a disappointment as the boat sheds were closed. The rest of the museum was good with excellent displays of artifacts from Neolithic to modern times and an interesting section on the geology of the islands.

Model fishing boat

Lunch then a long bus ride via two ferries to Haroldswick in Unst. There is a massive wind farm on mainland Shetland with a forest of overhead power lines connecting them to Lerwick, very unsightly.

Shetland from the bus 

I walked from Haroldswick along a tiny road to Burrafirth and then onto the National Nature Reserve at Hermaness. 

Burrafirth

The walk out to the top of the hill across the bog is easy as there is a new boardwalk that takes you most of the way, no wet feet!

Boardwalk across the bog

I had hoped to camp overlooking Muckle Fluga, the most northerly lighthouse in the British Isles, but the ground was either too steep or too wet so I continued the loop down and south above the cliffs.

Muckle Fluga lighthouse 

There are spectacular numbers of Gannets nesting on the cliffs and offshore rocks here, a birdwatchers paradise.

Out Skerry on the right, the most northerly bit of the British Isles 

I thought that I might have to go back to Burrafirth to camp near the beach but then I came across some beautifully rabbit nibbled turf with a flat bit just above the cliffs, perfect.

Unst west coast

A beautiful place with Puffins nesting in the rabbit holes close to me and Gannets and fulmars flying below.

The perfect spot?

The sun shone and it was beautiful although just when I was falling asleep it started to rain, luckily the wind stayed light.

More perfection 

In sure I was the most northerly person in the British Isles that night.

A long way but only about 5 miles walked 

Orkney 05/06/25

Westray, Thursday 5th June.

The wind eased overnight and it was raining hard in the morning but the forecast was for it to clear by late morning and it was right.

The Westray Stone

The plan for the day was to take the 18.00 ferry to Kirkwall before going to Shetland overnight but I wasn't sure what to do before that.

The Westray Wife 

I decided on a second visit to the heritage centre first for another look and to see if the rain would stop, it really is a fascinating place.

Pierowall bay at low tide

Coffee and cake at the shop/cafe then and I made the decision to walk to the ferry with a detour round by the Castle o'Burrian to see the Puffins.

He didn't like me much

To avoid some of the road I took an overgrown track to start with, which wetted my feet nicely, before being forced onto the 'main' road. 

Long straight road to the ferry terminal 

The road made the walking easy and there probably weren't more than a dozen vehicles that passed me.

The old mill with the remains of the waterwheel 

At the turn off and parking space for the Castle o'Burrian there is an old watermill that used to supply the island's needs, long since ruined.

The Castle o'Burrian 

The Castle o'Burrian is actually a decayed sea stack that is home to thousands of Puffins and Fulmars, in fact by the time I had walked round the coast I was almost suffering from a surfit of puffins!

Puffins

It was a perfect place to sit in the, almost, sun to watch the birds and pass an hour before getting to the ferry terminal.

Ro-Ro terminal Westray 

The sun was shining as the ferry crossed to Kirkwall and I found a good place to eat before walking to the North Link ferry terminal and the ferry for Lerwick.

Ferry to Kirkwall 

9 miles walked 

Orkney 04/06/25

Westray, Wednesday 4th June

Still blowing a gale and raining this morning as well but the forecast said it would ease to showers later.

Ruined cottages by the road 

I decided on a circular trip to include the west coast so started south on the road straight into the wind and rain.

The locals 

I hadn't gone far when a car stopped and offered me a lift, thank you very much! She dropped me where the road turned west which was much more pleasant walking and by the time I reached the coast the promised breaks in the rain had come.

The West Coast 

It was a very blustery walk along the cliff tops but at least l dried out between showers.

Overhanging old red sandstone cliffs 

The grassy cliff tops were teeming with rabbits and I saw two well fed feral cats, I was told there are no rats on Westray.

Plenty of rough water 

I couldn't safely approach the cliff edge because of the wind but still managed to see Cormorants, Fulmars, Kittiwakes, Razorbills, Guillemots, Puffins and near Noup Head, Gannets.

Near Noup Head

The wind was seriously strong at Noup Head and I was nearly forced to use hands and knees at times but after reaching the lighthouse the track and road back to Pierowall was much more sheltered by the hill.

A bit less blustery on the track from the lighthouse 

Close to Pierowall is Noltland Castle a relatively modern ruined castle that started building in 1560 and was never completed. It was well worth visiting.

Noltland Castle 

I walked out to the pier then to see if there was anything interesting, not a lot except for salmon farm boats although there was a nice old motor yacht.

Pierowall Harbour 

Fish and chips night tonight at the fish factory. Yummy 😋

Fish factory and Chip Shop

14 miles walked 600 meters ascent

Orkney 03/06/25

Westray, Tuesday 3rd June

A very windy night on the Kirkwall campsite but a bit better in the morning with sunshine for a while but it soon produced a heavy burst of rain before settling down to a steady gale with scattered showers.

St Magnus Cathedral Kirkwall 

There was a ferry to Westray at 07.00 but I was in no hurry so decided not to get up at silly o'clock and opted for the 13.00 boat.

On the way, note the angle of the ferry due to the wind making it heel

The wind was now a steady 40 mph from the south west but the sea was relatively calm as it is sheltered by the islands.

Green at Pierowall 

I had thought about walking up the island to Pierowall but didn't fancy the long, straight, exposed road so I got on the waiting bus.

Whale bones at the heritage centre 

My original plan was to go to Papa Westray but the ferry was cancelled for both today and tomorrow due to the weather so I settled into the good hostel at Pierowall where I got a room to myself with facilities almost as good as any hotel for less than half the price.

Pierowall pier

A walk around Pierowall and a visit to the heritage centre convinced me to stay here tomorrow as well, there are some interesting things to see and some good walks if the weather isn't too bad.

Hotel dining room 

A nice old-fashioned hotel for dinner and there was a concert at the venue adjoining the hostel in the evening.

A good night

Orkney 02/06/25

Hoy Monday 2nd June

It was a dry morning but still windy and grey, one of the windows in the bothy blew in overnight it didn't even break the glass just pushed the whole window frame in.

Road from Rackwick 

I wanted to see the Dwarfie Stane, a Neolithic rock-cut tomb with some nice legends, so I set off up the road through the glen. Miles of nothing and a nearly empty road.

The Dwarfie Stane 

The Dwarfie Stane was suitably impressive and I enjoyed some time there before a minibus group arrived.

Information board

I had thought of going over the hills to Lyness but the look of the heather and bog put me off and judging by the amount of traffic on the road I decided to just stay on the road and walk down the coast.

Across Scapa Flow 

There was almost no traffic and it was a very pleasant walk apart from some rather annoying back pain.

Steam crane at the Scapa Museum 

Arriving at the Lyness ferry terminal I found the Scapa Flow Museum. Even better, it had a café. I didn't have much time before the ferry but had a quick look round at the boilers and steam pumps that were used to move vast quantities of oil for the ships in Scapa Flow.

Pumps and engines

Across to Mainland and a bus to Kirkwall campsite which I knew from my end to end walk. 

Hoy from the ferry 

Ferry to Westray tomorrow?

Orkney 01/06/25

Hoy Sun 1st June

I was supposed to get the train from Elgin to Thurso yesterday but it was late getting to Inverness so I missed the connection. Claimed for the delay and got my money back and decided to take the bus (free bus pass) as it is actually quicker than the train and takes you right to the ferry terminal.

The Old Man of Hoy from the ferry

I stayed on the campsite at Stromness and when I was packing up to get the Hoy ferry I met the chap in the next tent who happened to be my neighbour the last time I camped here, he even remembered my name and that I was planning to talk the GR 11 last year! It was a pity that I had to go to catch the boat.

Approaching Hoy

A short walk up the road from the ferry and I found a little café and it was open! First stop of the day.

Tasty 

Second stop was Hoy church that is now a community centre and has a display of various things about Hoy. It also has a kitchen to make tea etc for a donation.

Hoy church interior

A bit of hill climbing then to the top of Cuilags at 435 meters it is the second highest hill in Orkney. It was very windy but after some early showers the rain held off until the evening.

Cuilags

On then to the west coast and a rough path along the cliff tops to the Old Man of Hoy. The cliffs are up to 1000ft high along this side of Hoy with some impressive views.

Hendry's Holes

The old man is also impressive, unfortunately the wind stopped me getting close to the cliff edge and also made holding the camera steady almost impossible.

The Old Man

A good path took me round and down to Rackwick where there is a bothy that is maintained by the local community as well as a free campervan park, both with toilets.

Rackwick bay

It was early but threatening to rain so I put up my tent behind the old wall by the bothy and went in and made a cup of tea as the squally shower came through.

Burnmouth cottage (bothy)

That was the last of the rain and I had a good windy night.