Saturday 28 September 2024

SW Coast Path, Day 4

 Day 4, 27th September 

I was woken at 05.00 by the wind which had gone round to the north and was battering at the tent. I'm glad I hadn't taken the lightweight one. I realised that there was no chance of getting back to sleep or doing anything else so packed up and left in the dark.

Approaching Gorran Haven!
I thought I may get some breakfast in Gorran Haven but the only thing moving was a dog on the beach.

Looking back towards Gorran Haven in daylight

Around Chapel point to Mevagissey where the only place open was the Post Office and general store where I was able to get some croissants and milk for breakfast.

Mevagissey 
The tourist season is just about over, there were notices on several cafés to say they were closed or about to close for the year.
Up and down 
Approaching St Austell the villages are obviously used as expensive residential suburbs with the coast path outside the pale.
Suburbia at Porthpean
Ten there is the little harbour at Charlestown that is set up for tourists with a slightly incongruous Thames barge.
Charlestown 
A little further on is Par where the processing and export of china clay is still taking place, a rather more industrial area which also had a good pub for lunch.
Par china clay works
The walk round Gribben Head was suitably steep in places with fantastic views of the days route around St Austell Bay to Dodman Head.
St Austell Bay 
There is a huge red and white navigation tower on Gribben Head before the walk to Fowey which continued the up and down theme.
Heading for Fowey 
Arrived earlier than expected at Fowey due to the early start, bonus.



22 miles 1300 meters ascent 




Friday 27 September 2024

SW Coast Path. Falmouth to Dodman Point

 Day 3, 26th September.

A lot of rain overnight but it had turned showery by the morning.

Falmouth harbour in the morning 

I had a small disaster in the morning when I  got on the wrong ferry and ended up in Flushing, a nice little place but I had to take the next ferry back so had to catch the boat to St Mawes three-quarters of an hour later than intended.  
The crossing to Place
There are actually two ferries to take, the main one to St Mawes and a little one across the creek to Place, or St Anthony.
Stone Coffin
The day started easily with fairly level walking past St Mary's church and around 
St Anthony's head with great views of Falmouth harbour.
Looking across to Falmouth 

 As far as Portscatho it was good walking at the edge of the cliffs mostly on paths in the grass fields.
Typical path

After Portscatho there was rather more up and down to Gerrans Bay, a low sandy section before the rough stuff started.
Tougher coastline approaching Nare Head

Porthluney Cove is all privately owned by Caerhays Castle and seems to be designed for outdoor weddings!

You can see why it could make a good wedding background 
It was getting late as I struggled up and down towards Dodmans Point.
The view back towards Nare Head
It was very windy at Dodman Head as I looked for a suitable spot to camp with a group of Dartmoor ponies watching.
The giant cross on Dodmans Head

I found some shelter but unfortunately the wind changed direction during the night.
A bit of shelter



18 miles 1100 meters ascent.

Thursday 26 September 2024

SW Coast Path Coverack to Falmouth

 Day 2. 25th September 

Some heavy rain overnight but it had eased to blustery showers by the morning.

I was happy to have the wind behind me when the showers came through, it was quite nasty. The way continued in much the same way, up and down, sometimes on good paths.

Past a big quarry that doesn't seem to be working anymore to Porthallow where there doesn't seem to be much except a few houses and a plaque.
Porthallow 
Unfortunately it was high tide when I got to Gillen Creek so it wasn't possible to wade across. It was a lovely walk around the head of the creek with private jetties and swans. A little shop provided a cup of tea at St Anthony-in-Meneage.
Head of Gillan Creek
Suitably refreshed I continued the Path which has a few inland detours to avoid eroded cliffs to Helston and a ferry across the river to Helston Passage.
Helston ferry
The path was through progressively more agricultural land as I rounded the headlands to Maenporth.

The path from Maenporth is a good rolled stone track which soon took me to Swanpool beach where it was quite tempting to take a shortcut and not walk around Pendennis Point.

Swanpool beach 
A road walk then around Pendennis Point and into Falmouth. Amazingly busy for a Wednesday night!
Falmouth docks




21 miles 850 meters ascent 

Tuesday 24 September 2024

South West Coast Path.


Day 1, Lizard to Coverack.

A warm dry morning as I left Winscombe for the coach-train-bus journey to the Lizard where I had started the Coast Path walk last year. This time I will be going east in an attempt to complete the section to the end at Poole.

Housel Bay Hotel, last year's starting point 

The bus got me to Lizard by 14.30 and I set off in some sunshine. It was quite hot and I should have had my shorts on but couldn't be bothered to faff around unpacking the rucksack so carried on in my trousers.

Lloyds signal station 

Up, down and over headlands, just as I remembered it but there are a lot more people about. Tourist season is not over yet, the good weather must have tempted people out as well.

The coast 

The first place along the coast was Cadwith, a tiny fishing village with no harbour. Just a big winch to pull the boats up the beach.

Cadwith 

There wasn't an excessive amount of climbing involved, just enough to keep it interesting and some good cliff scenery.

The Devil's Frying Pan 
Just before Coverack I came across a sculpture park which was a nice finish for the day.
A fine bronze boar

I was just eating my dinner when the rain started. A good night to test the new tent.


9 miles 700 meters ascent