Te Araroa 3/12/25

Day 71, Wellington to Levin (bus)

Pouring with rain this morning and windy with it so I just went as far as the museum and spent the morning and early afternoon there.

Museum building 

Will these be the only Kiwi I see?

Lots of interesting things that I didn't see yesterday as well as a good cafe, what more can you want?

A Barbera Hepworth sculpture 

Interesting use of string and light

A bus then to Levin where I was picked up by 'Trail Angel' Geoff and taken to his house for the evening.

Geoff

Te Araroa 2/12/25

Day 70, Rest day in Wellington.

Very windy again but sunny as I spent the day doing various touristy things.

Gandalf and Frodo models

First a bus trip to the Weta Workshop where the props, models and prosthetics were made for the Lord of the Rings films as well as numerous newer ones.

A selection of expensive LOR swords

The tour was good but it probably would have been better if I had known about some of the films they talked about.

Radio controlled goblin head

They use various modern techniques including computer simulation but a lot still uses clay, silicone and hand sculpting.

An interesting servo controlled hand

There is a single lane bus only road tunnel under Mount Victoria that we used on the trip in and out of the city.

Bus tunnel under Mount Victoria 

I then went to the Museum of New Zealand, a huge modern building with very interesting historical displays spread over five floors.

Stone troll outside Weta Workshop 

There was an fascinating section devoted to the Gallipoli fiasco where there are some five times lifesize models of soldiers that were made at the Weta Workshop, very atmospheric, the only thing that was missing was the Eric Bogle song although I suppose that was too Australian.

Five times lifesize 

A big section on New Zealand wildlife concentrating a lot on the damage that has been done by introduced species. Like most museums now, a lot of education stuff.

Comment on NZ tinned corned beef exports

Glasgow built floating crane in the harbour 

Dinner at an Ethiopian vegan restaurant finished a very interesting day.

The floating crane

Te Araroa 1/12/25

Day 69, Wellington to Island Bay

It was a very windy morning but clear and sunny when I set off and it stayed that way all day.

Wellington Harbour 

Monday morning and everyone was heading to work, a lot of them cycling. They must be used to the wind which has given the city the name of 'Windy Wellington'

The ferry heading for the south island

The trail takes a long and winding scenic route round the harbour and over the hills to get to Island Bay.

Fine old house looking over Wellington 

The walk round the harbour was very exposed and the bike traffic moving fast but I soon turned off onto a small path that climbs up through the woods to Mount Victoria.

High path above Wellington 

The view over the city was good but it was rather hazy. The route follows the ridge over Mount Alfred descending a little to Melrose before climbing to Mount Albert and a very windy view of the Cook Straight. 

South Island is out there somewhere 

It was only just possible to see the south island through the haze before descending to the shore and then around the coast for a short distance to Island Bay and the little plaque to mark the end of the north island.

TA plaque

Bus back to Wellington in time for lunch and after that I collected my new glasses from Specsavers, great to be able to see again!

Parliament building 

I went to the Parliament building but the tours were all booked so I just had a quick look round the foyer after an airport type security check.

War Memorial 

On to the Museum then where I looked at about half of it with the intention to go back tomorrow for more browsing.

Old Stothert and Pitt crane at the harbour 

Quite a lot of walking around the city but only about 13k on the trail.

My plan, at this stage, is to go back to Levin on Wednesday to do the mountains. The weather is looking reasonable.

Te Araroa 30/11/25

 Day 67, Ngaio to Wellington

Breakfast with the angels and more conversations before I was away down the road to rejoin the trail and the Wellington Northern Walkway.

Sunday morning Ngaio 

It was a quiet Sunday morning with a few joggers and dog walkers but no traffic as I walked the road to join the path following the stream to Wadestown.

Following the stream to Wadestown 

The trail then climbs over a hill with good views over Wellington until descending to the Botanical Gardens.

Trees and sky

Lots of interesting New Zealand vegetation and trees as well as herbs and the inevitable rose garden and café which provided a nice break.

Rose garden and café 

I had planned to walk to the end of the North Island trail today but after eating another scone decided that a wander through Wellington to my hostel before the rain started would be enough.

New Zealand Parliament building

I booked three nights in town at a very cheap hostel (single room) as the weather is still not looking good for the mountains so I have plenty of time to finish the South bit of the walk as well as see the sights of Wellington.

The old government buildings 

An excellent pub tonight with a live jazz band.

Jazz band at the Rogue and Vagabond bar

A very short day, only 10k 

Te Araroa 29/11/25

Day 66, Porirua to Ngaio

A beautiful morning again when I left the hostel for the walk beside the sea towards the railway station to get the replacement bus to Porirua.

Morning in Plimmerton 

The shuttle bus to Porirua arrived on time and, even better, was free so I was able to buy a second breakfast on arrival.

Looking back at Porirua

A climb up through the industrial estates on a good leafy path got me to the top road where a path with nearly 800 steps climbed up towards the Rangithui/Colonial Knob Walk.

A Yellow Admiral butterfly by the path

It was very windy at the top (468m) and a bit hazy but there were still good views all around and out to the top of the South Island.

Steps up

South Island in the distance 

The path then descended over the grassy hillside to the Ohariu Valley Road which was lined by horsey places and equestrian centers. None of them had a café.

Down through the rolling hills

After stopping for a snack at the start of Rifle Range Road I walked up to the start of the Skyline Walkway which is a path running around the ridge to the north and west of Wellington.

Trees by the road 

A steady climb up to the high point at Kaukau (445m) then along the skyline ridge until the trail descends to Ngaio.

The path climbs easily up through the hills

Ngaio is a really nice suburb of Wellington and has excellent trail angels in the human form of Lois and Rohan who let me camp in the garden and fed me an amazing evening meal with good conversation and a great breakfast the next day.

Down the Skyline Walkway 

We even went to look at the eels in the local stream in the evening.

Long fin eels in the stream at Ngaio 

24k walked today.

Thanks Lois and Rohan.

Driveway to the trail angels 

Te Araroa 28/11/25

Day 65, Paekakariki to Porirua

It absolutely poured with rain last night and there were strong winds as well and it was still bad when I woke up.

Heading for the beach 

The forecast was for it to improve later so I thought that a late start and shortish day would probably work so I booked into a hostel at Plimmerton .

Esplanade walk

It suddenly stopped raining at about 7am and shortly after there was even a glimmer of sun so it wasn't a late start after all.

Perching Parrot cafe

Down to the beach and a walk along the esplanade to the centre of the town and a good cafe for a bit of extra sustenance before tackling the Escarpment Track.

Painted building

The road, railway and track start off together until the track starts climbing up the hill leaving the road and rail far below.

Road, rail and path

I tried to count the number of steps that had been made, but failed, there are definitely well over one thousand.

Start of the steps up

Two excellent suspension bridges as well to cross deep valleys with great views of the sea, road and rail below.

Bridge number one

The weather stayed good and the cloud, although low, was always above the track. Definitely one of the highlights of the walk.

Road and rail below 

All too soon the Escarpment Track descended to Pukerua where after a pie and more coffee the walk is on a cycle track that follows the main road, close but mostly not in sight.

Cycleway beside the road 

Flooded footpath, the only sign of last night's rain 

Because I started earlier than planned l also arrived in Plimmerton early. The next place that I had to get to was Porirua and as it is also on the railway line I decided to walk on to there and get the train back to Plimmerton.

The costal walk

The plan to get the train back tomorrow isn't going to work as there are bus replacements for the weekend but I'm sure it will be ok.

Porirua 

A beautiful short coast walk out to the hostel where I had a room to myself. Showered and polished I went to the boat club for a few extra calories before dinner.

Walk round to the hostel 

I could have eaten there as well but I wanted to reduce my pack weight!

Boat Club

25k walked today.

Dot is where I'm staying tonight