GR 221 Day 7 6th Feb

6th Feb

Cooler today with a bit more cloud as I headed up the hill behind the Refugi.

Looking down to the Refugi 

The guide book said that today was the highest and toughest part of the GR 221. It is the highest but certainly easier than yesterday.

A stream with stepping stones 

I was just getting into the swing of the climb when I was out of the trees and almost at the Coll des Prat (4000ft).

Looking back

I had thought of climbing to the top of Puig de Massanella but there was a strong, cold wind and when the cloud opened the top section looked like a tough scramble, I decided that I was high enough already!

Coll des Prat, with the cliffs above

I passed a number of snow pits on the way down, these were built to pack snow into during the winter to have ice to sell in the summer months.

Snow pit

Once past the Casa de Neu (snow house) d'en Galileu there is a good stone track that zigzags down to the olives below. Presumably this was built to get the ice down quickly before it melted.

The zigzag track

Once down the zigzags the path goes down more gently through the olives and past a number of 'sitges' or circular platforms where charcoal was burnt, before arriving at the Santurai de Lluc.

Raised stone 'sitge' in the olives

The monastery was founded because a shepherd found a 'miraculous' statue of the Virgin here.

Santuaria de Lluc

It is a busy tourist destination now as well as still being a school and monastery. It has accomodation and also the only official campsite on the GR 221.

Nearly empty campsite

GR 211 Day 6 Wed 5th Feb

Wed 5th Feb

Perfect blue skies almost all day with nearly no wind. A cold start, I actually put my gloves on for a while. The views over Soller were amazing as I worked my way up to Biniaraix.

Soller in the morning 

The climb starts there, up an incredible stone track that winds very steeply up through olive terraces.

Well built zigzag path

The terraces cling to the almost vertical rocky slopes. Very difficult to understand how, and why, they were constructed.

El Tejido enjoying himself 

Higher up it opened up to give wide views back to Soller and I emerged from the shade of the cliffs.

View back to Soller

Tee shirt and shorts then for the rest of the day. The begining of February and 3000 ft high, definitely not Scotland!

Puig de Maxia

The descent to the Cuber reservoir was very gentle compared to the other side. It is obviously drier on south side of the hills as well.

Cuber reservoir 

The reservoir is a tourist hot spot and there were a lot of cars and people by the road. The water level was very low.

Looking back to the reservoir 

A steep climb up from the reservoir and over the top to begin the interesting descent to the Refugi.

Starting the descent 

It started easily enough but got steeper and rougher all the way.

Rougher and steeper

At one point there are chains bolted to the rock to help climb up and round a particularly difficult bit.

The chain helps!

All good things have to come to an end though and soon after the walking became easier through some more old olive terraces I arrived at the Refugi.

Rosemary by the path

I was too early to check in but there is a little garden by the Refugi with native plants, usefully labeled, to look at.

Refugi de Tossals Verds

Soon turned cold as the sun went behind the hills.

Garden at the Refugi 

GR 221 Day 5 Tue 5th Feb

Tue 5th Feb 

The Refugi was excellent last night, great food, with wine! and a good conversation with a young Belgian couple.

The main beam for the press

The refugio has a restored olive press behind it that is fascinating, there are only 28 left now, none of them working, out of the hundreds that must have been on every little farm.

Clearing the terraces

Walked down from the village where there were a number of people clearing and starting to cultivate some old olive terraces, the current shortage of olive oil must be encouraging someone.

Sea view

A good walk along old terraces, again high above the sea in the morning sunshine, it must have rained sometimes last night as everything was quite wet.

Everywhere is terraced

I realised, after a while, that I was going to get to Soller, where I had a room booked, much too early.

Entrance to Refugi de Muletta 

So I took the path out to the Refugi de Muletta and back, for a cup of coffee. A nice walk down and back up through the pine woods above Port de Soller. An extra hours walking!

Wonderful old olive trees 

The path loops round above Soller before descending through groves of citrus fruits.

Soller, surrounded by mountains 

Soller is a big town surrounded by mountains, the main access is through a long road tunnel to Palma.

Tourist shopping street

Soller is full of shops and quite a number of tourists, it must be heaving in the summer. I wasted some time wandering the streets looking in the overpriced 'art' shops before finding a suitable non tourist bar to partake of a beer.

View from my balcony 

GR 221 Day 4, Mon 3rd Feb

Mon 3rd Feb

A beautiful morning and a good breakfast in the hostal. Wandered out to see the village to be met with crowds of wrinklies being discharged from coaches.Decided it was enough to watch from a café table with a cup of coffee before starting today's walk.

Breakfast

Good views back to Valdemossa before climbing steeply up through a heavily wooded valley. The guide book said that this section wasn't way marked, but it is, and on a slightly different route! Very confusing.

Cliff scenery 

Some incredible views of the cliffs on the way up, and then a very well built path.

Gate and high stile on the path

Up through the olives

I made a detour to climb Puig des Trix, 1064 meters, well worth it for the view and the exercise! You have to go over a padlocked style with large 'Private' notices that everyone appears to ignore.

View from the top 

It was very windy on the top and on the path that continues along the ridge over a couple of other tops.

Well built path along the ridge

The descent of the Cingles de So Rul.Ian looks impossible from above, and below, but the path manages to thread a way around and under the stupendous cliffs through the olive trees to reach the pine forest below, amazing.

Looking down to Deia

On the way down, scaffolding bridge to cross a rockfall.

How did I get down that?

Refugi Can Boi

An excellent refugi for the night.

GR 221 Day 3 Sun 2nd Feb

Sun 2nd Feb

Rained all night and a lot of the day. A wet tent to pack away again.

Olive terraces

A good but wet walk high above the sea, 200 to 300 meters with the choice of descending to Banyalbufar, which I didn't bother to do after my experiences with the last villages, before turning inland through the hills to Esporles.

Productive olive terraces

There were a few people out walking today and while there were a few heavy showers it was quite pleasant.

Well built track down to Esporles

Esporles was completely closed, no signs of life at all, so onwards and upwards. From here I had two problems, the first being that I had got used to route markers and now there were none. Secondly I think my brain stopped working, as did the sat nav and I got lost, not one but twice!

Path up through the trees

I went up a steep rocky route and found a track that looked as if it went in the right direction, it didn't, I should have continued up. After wandering through the woods, getting thoroughly confused, I found where I should be.

Charcoal burning platform 

I then followed the correct track up the hill but instead of turning left I stayed on the track, which was a lovely walk along the hill and down through olive and almond terraces but unfortunately the wrong way.

A beautiful old olive tree

I thought it was taking longer to get to the end of the path than I anticipated and when I did reach a road, after climbing over a locked gate and walking the wrong way down the road I managed to work out that I was actually about 5 km south of where I was supposed to be.

Valdemossa (the next day)

The sat nav had failed me and said I was in Palma! I just had to turn round and walk up the road to Valldemossa. Slightly dodgy as it was getting dark. No idea how far I walked today but it was a lot further than intended, at least I had booked a bed for the night and there was a restaurant open.

GR 221 Day 2 Sat Feb 1st

Sat Feb 1st

A wet day. Waterproofs on and stayed on although the rain wasn't continuous. Unfortunately it was raining hard when I packed up the tent, a nice soggy lump to put up tonight.

Misty moisty morning

A good, damp walk to Ses Fontanelles where there is a hostel but no other facilities, I had hoped for breakfast.

A typical path today 

A climb up then on a very unclear, rough, limestone path that has been well way marked, towards Mola De s'Esclop.

View in a clearance 

The top was in the cloud and I decided not to climb right up but stayed on the path, 844 meters was enough for today.

Estellencs

A long, steady descent to Estellencs where I thought there would be a chance of finding a bar/restaurant but the only place open was a little shop selling sweets and tourist tat. Disappointing, not sure why they were open as there was no body about.

Camp site on a terrace

Walked on out of the village to find a place to camp, on a damp terrace, about 2km further on.

Drystone walls each side of the path