SW Coast Path. end for now

 30th September.

Unfortunately I have an infection in my lower leg that has been caused by a tiny foreign object of unknown origin, bone chip, splinter? I have been given antibiotics and told to rest it.

 

A view from yesterday 

End of coast walk for the moment

SW Coast Path, Day 6

 Day 6, 29th September.

As forecast the wind started at around 02.00, the ear plugs worked well and I slept until daylight.

Down the lane from the campsite 

It was very windy as I climbed up to the clifftop again and walking was difficult with the wind blowing me sideways.

Rame head in the distance 

There was rain forecast for later and my ambition was to get to Rame head before it started. The walking was partly on the road or beside it which made for fast going and there was little traffic.

Path by the road approaching Tregonhawke 

It was extremely windy when I reached Rame Head with it's old tower and gun platform, the rain starting just as I walked away from it and I sheltered behind a gorse bush to put on waterproofs.

Rame Head 

Luckily the path was reasonably protected but gorse and other bushes which made walking quite pleasant despite the wind and light rain.

Looking back to Rame Head.

I stopped for lunch at Kings and the heavy rain started. Very unpleasant the next bit but then reached the shelter of the trees, still very wet but not blowing as hard.

17 miles 1000 meters ascent.

There were loads of sweets chestnuts on the path and a variety of leaves, twigs and branches. I was wondering if the ferry would be running across the river.

A bit rough

It felt a bit strange walking through Edcumbe country park with people looking out of the orangery as I walked past.

The formal garden

When I arrived at the pier the ferry was just coming in, I would get a dry bed tonight!

Ferry approaching in the rain

The cheapest accommodation in town was, as usual, a grand hotel that had seen better days and now mainly does coach tours.

The Duke of Cornwall Hotel 

17 miles 1000 meters ascent 

SW Coast Path, Day 5

 Day 5, 28th September.

A beautiful day with no wind and sunshine nearly all day. Being a Saturday as well meant there were loads of walkers about, especially near the car parks.

Fowey harbour

Through Polruan which looks like an even more expensive version of Fowey (pronounced 'Foy') and onto the cliffs again for more ups and downs.

Looking to Pencarro Head

The cliffs and the sunshine kept going all day taking me through Polperro and Telland before dumping me in Looe.

Polperro 

Sea Shanties in the street, Polperro.

Loo(e) is appropriately named, it was full of tourists and the shops to service them. The only good thing was a branch of Boots where I bought some ear plugs ready for a noisy, windy night in the tent.

Approaching Looe, luckily you can't see it.

To be fair the harbour is pretty it's just the mass of tourists and tat in the town that's the problem.

Looe harbour 

Minor roads and tracks round the cliffs past some valuable houses to Downderry where the restaurant and the pub were both fully booked. I had looked in as I thought of going to the campsite before heading back for dinner. Luckily the tapas restaurant managed to feed me then before all the bookings started.

A rather exposed campsite 

17 miles 1300 meters ascent 

SW Coast Path, Day 4

 Day 4, 27th September 

I was woken at 05.00 by the wind which had gone round to the north and was battering at the tent. I'm glad I hadn't taken the lightweight one. I realised that there was no chance of getting back to sleep or doing anything else so packed up and left in the dark.

Approaching Gorran Haven!

I thought I may get some breakfast in Gorran Haven but the only thing moving was a dog on the beach.

Looking back towards Gorran Haven in daylight

Around Chapel point to Mevagissey where the only place open was the Post Office and general store where I was able to get some croissants and milk for breakfast.

Mevagissey 

The tourist season is just about over, there were notices on several cafés to say they were closed or about to close for the year.

Up and down 

Approaching St Austell the villages are obviously used as expensive residential suburbs with the coast path outside the pale.

Suburbia at Porthpean

Ten there is the little harbour at Charlestown that is set up for tourists with a slightly incongruous Thames barge.

Charlestown 

A little further on is Par where the processing and export of china clay is still taking place, a rather more industrial area which also had a good pub for lunch.

Par china clay works

The walk round Gribben Head was suitably steep in places with fantastic views of the days route around St Austell Bay to Dodman Head.

St Austell Bay 

There is a huge red and white navigation tower on Gribben Head before the walk to Fowey which continued the up and down theme.

Heading for Fowey 

Arrived earlier than expected at Fowey due to the early start, bonus.

22 miles 1300 meters ascent 

SW Coast Path. Falmouth to Dodman Point

 Day 3, 26th September.

A lot of rain overnight but it had turned showery by the morning.

Falmouth harbour in the morning 

I had a small disaster in the morning when I  got on the wrong ferry and ended up in Flushing, a nice little place but I had to take the next ferry back so had to catch the boat to St Mawes three-quarters of an hour later than intended.  

The crossing to Place

There are actually two ferries to take, the main one to St Mawes and a little one across the creek to Place, or St Anthony.

Stone Coffin

The day started easily with fairly level walking past St Mary's church and around 

St Anthony's head with great views of Falmouth harbour.

Looking across to Falmouth 

 As far as Portscatho it was good walking at the edge of the cliffs mostly on paths in the grass fields.

Typical path

After Portscatho there was rather more up and down to Gerrans Bay, a low sandy section before the rough stuff started.

Tougher coastline approaching Nare Head

Porthluney Cove is all privately owned by Caerhays Castle and seems to be designed for outdoor weddings!

You can see why it could make a good wedding background 

It was getting late as I struggled up and down towards Dodmans Point.

The view back towards Nare Head

It was very windy at Dodman Head as I looked for a suitable spot to camp with a group of Dartmoor ponies watching.

The giant cross on Dodmans Head

I found some shelter but unfortunately the wind changed direction during the night.

A bit of shelter

18 miles 1100 meters ascent.

SW Coast Path Coverack to Falmouth

 Day 2. 25th September 

Some heavy rain overnight but it had eased to blustery showers by the morning.

I was happy to have the wind behind me when the showers came through, it was quite nasty. The way continued in much the same way, up and down, sometimes on good paths.

Past a big quarry that doesn't seem to be working anymore to Porthallow where there doesn't seem to be much except a few houses and a plaque.

Porthallow 

Unfortunately it was high tide when I got to Gillen Creek so it wasn't possible to wade across. It was a lovely walk around the head of the creek with private jetties and swans. A little shop provided a cup of tea at St Anthony-in-Meneage.

Head of Gillan Creek

Suitably refreshed I continued the Path which has a few inland detours to avoid eroded cliffs to Helston and a ferry across the river to Helston Passage.

Helston ferry

The path was through progressively more agricultural land as I rounded the headlands to Maenporth.

The path from Maenporth is a good rolled stone track which soon took me to Swanpool beach where it was quite tempting to take a shortcut and not walk around Pendennis Point.

Swanpool beach 

A road walk then around Pendennis Point and into Falmouth. Amazingly busy for a Wednesday night!

Falmouth docks

21 miles 850 meters ascent